Electronic Throttle Body Testing and Replacement | P0222 P0223 P2135

Best video of the MODERN throttle body, and wire testing! I'm going to subscribe CarsNToys channel now, thank you!

Good evening sir hope your day is going well! I like your video content it's very well detailed and explained step by step awesome job!

Guys.. how come this guy, Mr. CarsNToys does not have 1000,000 followers? Thank you for an amazing video, clear, short, and educational in a language that I can understand and follow. Your advise is priceless at the end of the video with "Relearning" process! Again, THANK YOU!

Could you do a video on ECM/ECU Replacement on your 2010 Subaru Impreza? You've helped me so much with my Impreza.

Great video and well explained

Thank you sir well explained.

I have a JDM 2005 Honda Accord Euro 2.4 and my car threw a check engine light and VSA and triangle (!) symbol and also went into limp mode. I was driving on the highway and instantly panicked as I couldn't accelerate at all and pulled over to turn off the engine. Waited 5 mins and turned the ignition back on and the VSA and triangle (!) symbol disappeared but the check engine light still appeared. Luckily my car was able to drive the way it did before this incident occurred and I managed to reach home (30km highway driving). As soon as I got home I plugged in my OBD2 scanner and the diagnostics read P2135 code and I came across this video. My first suspicion was bad/dirty connectors since this happened the same day I took my family out for a road trip. It made sense that this could be related since I had to drive off road to enter into a campsite for our day hike (and it was extremely dusty too). After a while the check engine light disappeared on its own the very same day as I had been driving it often. I was relieved but when I plugged the scan tool again I saw the code still existed. I waited till the next day and decided to clear the code manually using my OBD2 scanner. Unfortunately, as soon as I stepped on my gas pedal, the same incident occurred but luckily I was just at a parking lot. I turned off engine and back on and it worked just fine again and eventually the engine light disappeared on its own again but still showing the code when I used my scan tool. I decided to buy CRC contact cleaner and disconnected my negative battery and unplugged the connectors to the APP and the TPS and sprayed it many times and used a Q tip as well. I let it air dry for at least 30 mins before reconnecting everything and made sure the electrical connectors were tightly fitted (a decent click sound heard). I test drove it around for 30 mins and then checked my scan tool and the code was gone. So far haven't come across any issues but that was the cheapest fix ever. Only needed a contact cleaner thankfully and not a replacement of APP or TPS.. Sorry for long message but just thought I could share my experience with p2135 code

Are these the only codes for throttle body? My cars throwing P1239 for TPS Circuit Range/Performance

If you are using a throttle body that doesn’t belong on your car, could you test and find which corresponding wires open the throttle body and make them match up in the harness to make it work? Or is there more to it

I changed out throttle body and gas pedal still getting p0122 and p0222. Starting to assume it’s the wiring but not very good with testing though how would I go about doing that. It has 6 wires 2008 ford Taurus

Why turn on AC, is that to cause possible compressor cycling and idle changes?

When he tested the plug (going to the actuator)in the wire harness it said 11.3 on the multimeter. How much voltage should be going from the wiring harness to the actuator on the side of the throttle body? Mine is reading only 4 volts. Any suggestions??

Maybe I missed something, but how does this test show if the throttle body is bad?

most fly "drive" by wire throttle bodys have at least 2 TP sensors and the ECM "computer" monitors both plus two more TPs on the gas pedal..if any of those 4 TPs are out of range the ECM will put the car in limp mode "no power" or very limited power. This keeps the throttle body from getting you killed should it malfunction and you can't control the speed of the engine!

Can you say how much volt must be on black and red(+). I see you have around 12V. In my case I have 5V.

But is it normal not being able to move that plate with fingers?

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Hmm, I thought you shouldn't push on that butterfly thingy on a electronic throttle body

Wish these people that made these videos would respond. Doesn't make any sense.