POLISHING HEADLIGHTS IS A SHAM/scam --- and why you should never only polish headlights

Cost cutting by manufacturers is why we have to do this , bring back glass headlights and they will outlast the car.... 👍

As an industrial chemist who worled for Stanley making polycarbonate headlights and specializing in thr coatings to prevent degradation from UV, I can tell you most of the information in this video is complete nonsense.

I use this method and it works well!!! That said, I miss the days when they were made from glass and didn't require restoration... EVER!

I used Colgate toothpaste and it was pretty amazing. The added benefit is that my lights won’t get any cavities

I remember the time when headlights were made out of glass. 20 years later they still looked brand new, no work needed. Great video, many helpful tips!

I spent a lifetime in Automotive Collision Repair. When these Headlamp Assemblies arrived on the scene we knew this would happen. Nice looking job.

20 minute video for this is crazy

You're so good. It's so difficult to pay someone to do an honest job. I prefer to pay specialists but lately I feel like if I actually want it done right, teaching myself on YT and doing it myself is the only way.

I used to work in a big box retailer lube shop and headlight restores was one extra thing we would do with a 3m 4 step sanding kit (2 dry sands, one wet, and one liquid buff) I had a high rate of customers who would recommend me as the tech to do restores as while I would take around an hour or so to get the job done I made sure those lenses where as close to brand new looking as they could get. Biggest thing was educating people on how the "wipe" polishes didn't work or didn't work for long and how sanding was the only lasting way to keep old headlights clear

Only 2 things wrong with glass headlights; 1. You could buy aftermarket ones super cheap, and install them easily, completely leaving car dealers out of the transaction 2. They are beyond rugged and scratch-proof. (Ditto for hood springs vs. pneumatic struts. Springs last forever, struts only last a few years.)

Completely agree that it takes time to properly restore your headlights. The Sylvania kit works great, but you have to put in 15-20 minutes per headlight if you follow their directions. Mine lasted almost 5 years before I had to do it again.

I worked for an OEM headlight manufacturer about 20 years ago. After we molded the PC clear lens we then sent it to a company that would coat the lens in a proprietary manner I think we called it "hard coat". Some lens had small runs on them when they came back to us. This coating blocked the UV and prevented the degradation you are dealing with. If you don't have some type of UV protection after your treatment it will, as you say, come back quicker and quicker.

I followed your procedure to the letter today on a 2006 Pontiac Vibe. When I was finished I said wow these lights look brand new. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and posting this video.

The method I used was similar to what you did. I got up to a 2000 grit (part of the Sylvania kit I used), each lens took about 45 minutes of sanding and prep. Now it's still good over 2 years later. I think the key is to take your time don't rush any step and really do each step as thoroughly as possible.

When I was working for a shop in Charlotte, NC this was the same step process we did. It was a big kits that was in a carrying case. Only difference was we had two different pneumatic drills…one being a stubby type drill for the sand papers, and the other a polisher type drill that had two different type foam pads for the head. Headlights turned out perfect (if done correctly) every time.

Was doing the same yesterday on a 2001 Ford Ranger Edge with original clear light covers. It's a work truck for me and nothing else. I used Mother's NuLens mainly for the polishing head and polish. Clean up with 90% rubbing alcohol. Cheap low tack green tape to mask. Sprayed lens with Meguirs Headlight Coating. I've done this every couple of years with different products for 15 years. Works for me. Would not spray a perfectly new headlight cover, better for an older vehicle's headlight covers. Solid video and grear job.

This is pretty much the way I did my headlights, except I did one more step you missed. I did the 1500 grit before the final 3500 then buffed it. I also wet sanded every step by hand, except for the buffing process of course. Either way the point is if you're not getting past that top oxidation and down to the actual lens, then buffing alone is a waste of time... I learned this the hard way.

I used the Sylvania kit and it worked awesome and has stayed crystal clear for the last two years so far in Arizona weather.

Based on my experience, you advice is spot-on. I used a 3M kit to do essentially what you show in your video. There was a learning curve. Patience is important: My first lens took about two hours. The results have been great. My biggest surprise was how yellow the first removed material was. I've done multiple cars now (for family).The first car's headlights were cleaned up two years ago and still look great. The only down-side of the 3M kit was it did not have a UV-blocking final coat. I had to purchase that separately (Yes. The UV protective coat was distinctly labeled for headlights). My biggest struggle was getting the swirls removed (patience, keep the drill moving, keep the pressure light). I tried a sanding block, but gave it up quickly because it would not conform to the compound curves of the headlight and only provided a line or point contact. I do wish that I had had a hand holder for the sanding discs, one like you used in the video (gotta find me one of those).

I used a 3M kit about 2 years ago and both my headlights still look good. Your method is obviously superior to what I did. When I do it again, I will definitely will be doing what you are doing.