How to Select and Prioritize Upgrades/Mods | Forza Horizon 4

"Adding power might make you faster on the straights but subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." Ahh, Colin Chapman's Lotus philosophy! Great video Hoki :)

I always end up in A class with a 2000 pound car that has 320hp and can only go 140, but god do they turn lmao

0:16 Conversions 2:11 Aero 3:14 Tires and rims 5:54 Drivetrain 7:14 Handling 9:30 Engine 12:00 Overall Priorities Found myself coming back often, so I put down the chapters

That's my philosophy too: prioritise handling. A slow car that can turn at full throttle is faster than a fast car that needs to brake at every single turn. I often win races against more powerful cars because my car can do almost all the race at 100% gas

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights, but subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." One of my favorite quotes :)

Hoki, has anyone told you that you have such a calming and beautiful voice. Love this video by the way.

This could be used as a quick reminder. I did not read any comments and also wrote this down in one watching of the vid., so take this with a grain of salt. Summary 12:00 Prioritize: Antiroll Differential Wheel spacers Race/Rally/Drift Tires and braking Shift quick enough Gear rations Weigh reduction Power Long version: 0:00 - 12:00 Conversions: Engine swapp: Stock engine unless pushing into other class, as they have better PI value. Drivetrain: Recommended to leave as is. Execptions online for launch speed Turbo: Generally preffered over superchargers. Good choice if you cannot reach power goals with NA engine. Superchargers: More weight and less peak power, linear power gain and starts lower in the rev range. Aero: Forza parts very useful on high class cars. Generally worth on A+ class cars. Add(for appropriate front/rear) only if you are struggling for front/rear grip. Wheel & Tire mods: Compound: Choosing right compound should be chosen by temp. Drive around and inspect tire telemetry. Blue too cold - downgrade Transperant good Yellow too hot - upgrade Width: Max for driven wheels Rims: Can reduce weight 17"+ recommended Bigger wheels = more weight, more responsive handling, better grip Go for spacers if possible Transmission mods: Clutch: Huge help on manual cluthless and automatic Not worth if you are driving on manual Transmission: Upgrade if stock gear ratios are off or need faster shift time Driveshaft: Go for it, weight reduction Differential: Does not cost any PI, go for it Breaking: Max is not always better. Max braking for A+ Only upgrade if you are not maxing out braking Open up telemetry and check the peak braking power: Under 100% - downgrade Over 100% - good, might benefit from upgrade? Suspentions: Skips street/sport Race Drift Rally according to the mode Antiroll: Max Chassi reinforcement: Most do not need any Extremely useful for older cars that are pushed into a higher class Raw weight reduction: Great if you can affford PI. Choice between POWER/WEIGHT R. = Shave weight instead of adding power. Prioritize losing weight in wheel / driveshaft / flywheel weight over raw weight reduction Power: Intake - lower priority. Increases power/torque sometimes reduced weight Throttle body - lot of power and torque and shave weight. Good way to add power Fuel system - good mod power and torque does not shave weight Exaust - higher priority shaves a lot of weight, adds good power and a lot of torque Cam shaft - highest priority lots of power/torgue and increased redline Valves - lower priority Displacement - a lot of extra power/torque Compression - lower priority Turbo - higher priority great way of adding a ton of power Cooling(intercooler/oilcooling ) - avoid if you can get power else where. On simulation helps to prevent engines from overheating, otherwise justs adds weight Flywheel - good way to add/reduce few PI

Die hard sim players: “now you don’t want to max out everything and you want to prioritise speed or handling” Ever other FORZA player: “so guys just maxed out my new car to X999 class can’t wait to go so fast”

After binge-watching all of your videos since I recently discovered your channel, this was the last guide that I desperately needed! Your content has made me a millions times more interested in this game and it's community, so thank you for making really enjoyable and accessible guides for us!

Drift suspension is usually 1lb less than race, sometimes 0, but can be tuned back to race alignment & stiffness. This provides no advantage over race suspension in a race but in freeroam rush it is hugely beneficial to have extra angle to bring yourself out of bad situations.

You have no idea how much you've helped me Hoki. Thank you so much 🙏

As far as upgrading process (in terms of what to upgrade first) I pretty much always have the same structure, prioritized after usefulness (filling the PI with the big rocks (important upgrades) and filling it with the sand (nice-to-have stuff) afterwards is much easier than filling in the sand and then trying to get the big rocks in, if you want to go with that image). Interesting to note though: the PI is actually calculated in-game as a floating number (IIRC) - that's why some upgrades don't change PI at first, then suddenly do after you come back to it from upgrading the rest, that's why it's a good idea to leave some tweaking points. 1) Conversions (duh). Changing this after you upgraded the rest defeats the purpose as you replace your upgrades. 2) Tires. I usually have a PI goal in mind, and I prioritize this over anything else because my car will literally stand or fall with this. Tire compound first, then tire width, then track width. I leave the rims as a tweaking point for later (since Forza doesn't differentiate between sprung and unsprung weight, it's just more weight shaved off). 3) Aero. As a rule of thumb, I try to leave the aero stock below S1 class. In A class if a car is particularly unruly, but mostly I get by without; I found it costs quite a bit of PI and the handling hit I take for not taking Aero upgrades is negligable for the most part in A class and below. 4) Transmission. Unless the gears are completely wonky, final gear tuning is enough. Clutch I only upgrade if I feel the shifting is too slow. Differential costs no PI and adds tuning options, so always take that. Driveline I leave as a tweaking point, since sometimes you can get away with upgrading your driveline without upping your PI and the performance boost isn't high enough to prioritize this over more power IMHO. 5) Platform and handling. Suspension > ARBs > Brakes > Weight Reduction (depending on the car); Roll Cage only in cars that aren't -race cars OR - built after 1995(ish). Or in some cases, just as a way to optimize the front weight percentage. A good indication when it's a good idea is when it adds more than 2 PI. 6) Engine. Camshafts > Exhaust > Fuel system > Fly Wheel > anything else that brings me up to the PI I want. BONUS: 7) Transmission. Going back to check if I can sneak in a driveline upgrade :D

Me: slaps all max upgrades on my car and makes them all s2+

Dude, this was so incredibly helpful - thank you. I was finally able to tune/upgrade the 22b which was impossible to use before with my crap upgrading.

I’ve found a very enjoyable niche in B class... not too fast but fast enough to still feel like a race and not a parade.

Thank you for making these. Just came here via your tuning guide - these are really helpful videos, very clear and calm, and very much appreciated.

These videos are really helpful because I don’t know much about upgrading and tuning cars Thanks a lot

I was desperatley looking for such a video by release of FH4....thankx for doing now!

Side note : Rally suspension is good for drag dracing as it improved 0-60 time and you can add height in the back of your car

The tuto I wanted so bad!!! Thaaaank you!