FCA 41TE Overhaul

after watching this video I have concluded a few thoughts. this is the kind of instruction that people used to get way back in the 50s 40s and maybe coming into the 60s because it's so thorough so clear and so down-to-earth that I think this kind of actual instruction has been a lost art in the education market for a long time. keep up the great work man!

Thanks for the instructional video. First time tearing into one of these. I installed a seal & gasket set + the underdrive & overdrive friction discs. The trans is actually an A604 out of a 93 LeBaron sedan with 57K miles so all the mechanicals were in excellent shape. The only aggravating thing the trans was doing was doing the bump stop (one bump only) thing causing the trans to go into limp home mode. I replaced the low/ reverse piston seals (the lip type) with the D-ring seals that came in the kit. The trans parts guy had some upgrade parts for the OD/UD & low reverse accumulators which I used. End result: removed one problem (the bump stop thing) but created 2 new problems. I suspect that the upgrades to the accumulators are the problem. Now I will have to drop the pan & valve body to remove them. Again thanks for the video, best one I could find.

Great video, I can tell you are a patient instructor. I had a similar problem with beginners using a wrench instead of hand tighten. Solved the issue by welding a top bar making it a "T" bar. That way there's nothing to put a wrench on. Anyway, thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.

I love the way you teach . Amazing Thanks .😇 + 🕯 💜❤

Superb! You are specialist! 👌🏼✨

Well done,, Sir! Good job.

very useful video. thankl you for sharing! I have a 2005 Chrysler town and country with this transmission. this is super informative.

Great video.

I bought a master rebuild kit from chrysler so I hope everything I need is in the kit. I also bought a new torque convertor just in case there was contamination in the old one which is now a core for my core charge.

Excellent video. Like your students, I was also perplexed by the manual's "remove 1 clutch plate". They could have added "to not scratch it when removing snap ring". I'm rebuilding my 2002 A604 AWD transmission for a second time and going in deeper. First time was only because I had to remove it to replace a cracked flexplate. Then I found the first clutch plates barely worn (1 mil max) so did just a rubber & gasket refresh. This time (10 years later), it was leaking bad at the front, perhaps because I found 3 pump bolts loose (swore I used thread-lock and torqued them to spec). I'm changing almost every wear item since 270K miles now. So far, I had trouble removing the output bearings, having to use my milling machine (carbide end mill) to cut off a cone race and the outer cup (since recessed w/ no slot to set a drift on it). Changing some bushings proved that no good deed goes unpunished as several turned out slightly too small for the mating shaft. I only found that after spending a day trying to stab the clutch pack back and taking things apart again, thinking some clutches were wrong or hanging up, but actually a new bushing was preventing engagement. I also bought the snap ring assortment and had trouble when I didn't notice the new wavy ring was too long so overlapped slightly (cut it). I suggest only changing the pump bushing unless you find others worn (none in mine). Also, good to buy a new star spring for the bottom of the clutch pack since others have found those broken. Surprisingly, none of the clutch disks or steels are worn even 1 mil after another 80K miles and all rubber seals look fresh, so probably no need to rebuild one before 400K miles unless experiencing problems. A document w/ many photos and much more detailed than the shop manual: https://www.uscars.biz/uscars/extras-documents/ATRA_Chrysler_41TE_604_Rebuild_Procedures.pdf

You rock Boyle!

EXCELANTAE !!! Like algebra.. the average fool as myself will need to have multiple exposure even to begin understanding - LOL -"the simpliest thing in the world" -Bravo - great instruction - muucho thanks !!!

I think you got me the input shaft must not been in all the way so I got to deal with my mess up ☺️ I must be a regular thank you 😉. Now I know why I lost reverse I jammed it in there I didn't do the last reverse clutches lost reverse after I destroyed the clutches I'm going back in to rebuild it again do it just like you. I did two transmissions got this one right on reverse on one and ruined 2-4 clutches on one burned em up was to tight clearly clearances.

you are god damn real specialist dude

This step by step breakdown is helpful! I have a rebuild manual I found online, but this is a great companion, especially for the detail you go into. I picked up a '95 Cirrus for cheap and it would go into limp mode during downshifts, but otherwise drove and up-shifted fine (cycling the key off/on would clear limp mode and no CEL came on). Finally pulled the transmission to see what was going on and found some VERY worn 2-4 clutch discs (all the way to the metal!) and some gouging on the OD clutch hub from the disc's... fingers? Whatever you call them. The one in the video has markings, but mine has deep grooves on one side of the recesses on the outside of the hub. I'm replacing that, some very heat marked steels, and using a Mopar overhaul kit. Question though, I found some marking inside the input clutch retainer. I don't think it'll cause any issues reusing it, what do you think?

Much appreciated video. Thank you. Just wish it included the final drive and transaxle. Mine is shifting fine but it seems to be moaning from the tranfer case. Like maybe a bearing is worn out. No real vibration, just moaning like a dry bearing? Or maybe even a worn drive gear. Sure would like to know more about that and where to get the repkacement parts

I need help please. I overhauled my 41TE of 1997 DGC (270K km). I replaced all plates, clutches, rings, clean/flush the solenoid body, torque converter, except to re-use the old solenoid pack. I tested this SP and the ohms is good within specs. I decided not to replace (just total flush) as I thought I can still replace this if the low shift bump will persist later (as this is an external part). The bump never go away after the overhaul but there's no code. After running some +300km. I decided to replace the SP pack with brand new Wagner. The van works well smoothly during road test but reverts to its old bumps today just after some 50 km. What else should I need to check/do to remove the bumps. I understand the bump will start to erase all the spline of the planetary gear as I found out in the overhaul. (I replaced this part too on the overhaul). Thank you for time in advance.

Best video I've watched as of yet - aaamazingly intricate piece of equipment! I have a whine in my 05 T&C that occures only over 45 mph - I think it is perhaps the diferential bearings - any suggestions?

" the simplest valve body in the world" there is goodness in simplicity - I am happy to be a town and country nut - have 6 of em - two for parts - two running on the road, two for back ups - looking forward to keeping my T&C's in good operating shape - Walter Chrysler would be very happy with the engineering of the 41TE ! Simple for you professor, but an engineering marvel for me !!! Question... can a faulty valve body cause shudder???

Excellent video, we need more instructors like you to motivate the youth of today. It reminded me of some of my trainers years and years ago. You will also be saving me thousands as I have two of these to do! For an overhaul kit who would you recommend?